iPhone 7 Plus Austausch der Lightning Connector Einheit

Geschrieben von: Jeff Suovanen
  • Kommentare: 215
iPhone 7 Plus Austausch der Lightning Connector Einheit

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

65

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir den Austausch der Lightning Connector Einheit. Das kann viele Probleme beim Aufladen und der Konnektivität lösen.

  1. lmhcoVgsVMmGK1sw

    • Vor dem Beginn sollte der Ladestand des iPhones unter 25% liegen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann bei Beschädigung brennen oder explodieren.

    • Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinandernimmst.

    • Entferne die zwei 3,4 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones.

    • Nach dem Öffnen des Gerätes ist das iPhone nicht mehr wasserdicht. Halte Ersatzdichtungen bereit, oder sei nach der Reparatur extra vorsichtig, wenn dein iPhone Flüssigkeiten ausgesetzt ist.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff -

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart -

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter -

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam -

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar -

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen

    bester -

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin -

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

    etc...

    Neil Eriksen -

    A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

    Herb

    Herb Adler -

    The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

    Gareth Flandro -

  2. S4Op1uHRW2rXDBrC
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    • Wenn die Glasscheibe des Displays an deinem iPhone zerbrochen ist, überklebe sie mit geeignetem Klebeband, um weitere Brüche und Verletzungen während der Reparatur zu vermeiden.

    • Überdecke die Glasscheibe des Displays komplett mit überlappenden Streifen von Paketband.

    • So werden die Glasscherben zusammengehalten, wenn du das Display als Ganzes hochhebelst.

    • Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Glassplittern zu schützen.

    • Wenn das Glas so stark zerbrochen ist, dass der Saugheber in den nächsten Schritten nicht gut haftet, dann versuche ein starkes Klebeband ("Panzerband") zu einem Griff zu falten und so auf die Scheibe zu kleben, dass du sie damit hochziehen kannst.

    • Wenn das alles nicht funktioniert, dann klebe den Saugheber mit Sekundenkleber am Display fest.

  3. uSKuDUqkPXShJGIe
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    • Wir haben die Anti-Clamp entwickelt, um Geräte sicher zu öffnen. Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung der Anti-Clamp. Wenn du sie nicht verwenden willst, überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode.

    • Genaue Anweisungen, wie die Anti-Clamp benutzt wird, findest du hier.

    • Drücke den blauen Griff zurück, damit die Arme der Anti-Clamp frei beweglich werden.

    • Schiebe die Arme entweder über die linke oder die rechte Kante des iPhones.

    • Bringe die Saugheber am unteren Rand des iPhones direkt über dem Home Button an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.

    • Drücke die Saugheber zusammen, so dass sie auf den Oberflächen haften.

    • Wenn die Saugheber nicht gut auf den Oberflächen des iPhones haften, dann kannst du die beiliegenden Stücke aus Klebeband verwenden, um eine griffigere Oberfläche zu schaffen.

  4. TWCRek6KAd4BXPEo
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    • Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, damit die Arme wieder fest sind.

    • Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, oder bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.

    • Achte darauf, dass sich die Saugheber weiterhin gegenüber stehen. Wenn sie sich nicht mehr gegenüber stehen, dann löse die Saugheber ein wenig ab und schiebe sie in die richtige Position.

  5. 1UMWDAgvEgkQkwPM
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    • Führe einen erwärmten iOpener durch die Arme der Anti-Clamp.

    • Forme den iOpener so, dass er auf der Unterkante des iPhones liegt.

    • Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber lösen und ein Spalt entstehen kann.

    • Wenn die Anti Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt erzeugt hat, setze ein Plektrum unter das Display ein.

    • Wenn es nicht gelingt, mit der Anti-Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt zu erzeugen, dann erwärme die Stelle nochmals und drehe den Griff eine viertel Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn weiter.

    • Drehe den Griff jeweils nicht mehr als eine viertel Umdrehung weiter und warte jedes Mal eine Minute lang. Gib der Anti-Clamp Zeit, ihre Arbeit zu erledigen.

    • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte.

  6. HWFBtehBMjCQcFAc

    • Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen, wie das Display mit einem Saugheber abgelöst werden kann.

    • Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.

    • Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth -

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko -

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges -

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B -

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P -

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner -

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc -

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown -

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron -

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker -

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic -

  7. VRy3fVrOovwUCabE
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    • Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.

    • Passe dabei auf, dass der Saugnapf den Home Button nicht bedeckt, sonst kann der nicht mehr dicht abschließen.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm -

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica -

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson -

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner -

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri -

  8. PnYJMHrBqA2Jh22u
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    • Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Display und Rahmen bilden.

    • Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.

    • Die wasserdichte Verklebung am Display ist sehr stark. Um den Spalt zu öffnen, musst du recht viel Kraft aufbringen. Wenn du Schwierigkeiten hast, solltest du nochmals Wärme anwenden und dann die Scheibe vorsichtig hoch und runter ruckeln, um so die Klebeverbindung zu schwächen, bis du genug Platz hast, um dein Werkzeug einzuführen.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy -

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill -

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman -

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood -

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica -

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard -

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat -

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers -

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk -

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz -

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo -

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner -

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    • Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.

    • Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.

    • Versuche nicht, die Oberkante des Displays vom Rückgehäuse wegzuhebeln, denn hier halten Plastikclips die Teile zusammen. Die Clips könnten abbrechen.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber -

  10. g1bJoLynAKeivqUm

    • An der rechten Seitenkante verlaufen empfindliche Kabel. Setze das Plektrum an diesen Stellen nicht ein, die Kabel könnten beschädigt werden.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries -

  11. bYHHQWBLX2SbZ4ZM
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    • Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.

    • Setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 3 mm ein, du könntest sonst die Displaykabel beschädigen.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper -

  12. JsELGeLj2sULj4Rl
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    • Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.

    • Hebe das Display maximal 15° an. Du könntest sonst die Flachbandkabel des Displays überdehnen und beschädigen.

    • Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.

  13. 1wx6fuMwGlVmTVwg
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    • Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers -

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner -

  14. pmOBsioPu6PHdocL
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    • Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.

  15. XaJPKiESSbHGIDqx
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    • Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her umklappst, so wie wenn du ein Buch öffnest.

    • Versuche noch nicht, das Display ganz zu trennen. Verschiedene empfindliche Flachbandkabel verbinden es noch mit dem Logic Board.

    • Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel -

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert -

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys -

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys -

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

  16. UHPAQ4xaQQRZEEc2

    • Entferne die folgenden Dreipunkt Y000-Schrauben, die die Blende des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board fixieren:

    • Drei 1,2mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,6mm Schraube

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 -

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell -

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech -

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday -

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 -

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith -

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant -

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews -

    there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

    Lars Göbel -

    what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

    Neylley Reynoso -

  17. k34xU4RKWbs1uk5K
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    • Entferne die Blende des unteren Displaykabels.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west -

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard -

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith -

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar -

  18. VS1FiZyZHebFIuQo
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    • Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Batterieanschluss aus seinem Stecker auf dem Logic Board heben.

    • Biege das Anschlusskabel leicht nach unten, um zu verhindern, dass es mit der Steckdose in Berührung kommt und das Telefon mit Strom versorgt.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark -

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer -

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon -

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O -

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    • Bevor du in diesem Schritt Kabel ablöst oder anschließt, musst du den Akku abtrennen.

    • Nutze das flache Ende eines Sprudgers oder einen Fingernagel, um die beiden unteren Displaystecker aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.

    • Beim Wiedereinbau von Steckverbindungen, drücke die Kontakte erst an einem Ende nieder bis sie einrasten, anschließend das zweite Ende. Drücke nicht in die Mitte des Steckers. Wenn der Stecker auch nur minimal verschoben ist und du darauf drückst, verbiegt sich der Stecker und es kann zu einem unreparierbaren Schaden kommen.

    • Wenn du nach dem Zusammenbau kein Bild hast, das Display nur weiße Zeilen zeigt oder die Touchfunktion teilweise oder ganz ausgefallen ist, dann löse noch einmal diese beiden Kabel und verbinde sie neu. Achte darauf, dass sie gut sitzen.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon -

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay -

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach -

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford -

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll -

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO -

  20. eOV4A2QhwOEwbiHK
    eOV4A2QhwOEwbiHK
    PHEMGNluvvEJ1qga
    AiXmxFQOUDwwQlS2

    • Entferne die drei Dreipunkt Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung über der Buchse für den Sensor des Front Panels befestigt ist.

    • Eine 1,3mm Schraube

    • Zwei 1,0mm Schraube

    • Entferne die Abdeckung.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west -

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 -

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou -

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo -

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 -

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji -

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep -

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt -

  21. HP3GYMeDTQfroDSM
    HP3GYMeDTQfroDSM
    rYVXLQtY5ZhLE5pe

    • Ziehe den Stecker der Front Panel Sensoreinheit aus der entsprechenden Buchse auf dem Logic Board.

    • Diese Steckverbindung sollte beim Wiederanschluss auch erst an einer Seite und dann an der anderen Seite zusammengedrückt werden, um zu verhindern, dass etwas verbogen wird.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly -

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy -

  22. 6sXLpmxMPOVXtwBd

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji -

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien -

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra -

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

    Shawn Hime -

    I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

    In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

    If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

    Rob Russell -

  23. CLKps4OJMD3O1FQq

    • Entferne drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Antennenkomponente befestigen:

    • Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 1,2 mm Schraube

    It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

    Jack -

    Yep it works, Jack. Thank you.

    Simon -

    Thanks Jack,

    Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

    Drew McCluskey -

    To each it’s own, but it was much better for me once I went through the steps and took the logic board off. It’s not hard. Without taking the board off, I found that the logic board is just too rigid to easily lift it up by 7mm. Plus the old Lightning Port assembly is stuck on the case pretty strong and putting the new one in with the adhesive and lining it up correctly would be impossible for me without the logic board clear out of the way. My personal recommendation is to stick to the script on this iFixit process.

    S C -

  24. jMRUcdyeuCvVTTDY

    • Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die die Antennenkomponente an der Oberkante des Rückgehäuses befestigt.

    This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.

    vinicius.edson -

  25. RKaOW5wRhX4aZaa4
    RKaOW5wRhX4aZaa4
    OoCwhniSTauiIk2K
    Q3rQFRKhFTJeCVGl

    • Die Schraubenaufnahme am oberen Ende der Antenne steckt in einer kleinen Aussparung an der Oberkante des iPhones.

    • Kippe die Antenne in Richtung der oberen Kante des iPhone.

    • Schiebe die Schraubenaufnahme herunter und aus ihrer Aussparung heraus.

  26. l3tqSvofYZNADHt5

    • Entferne die obere linke Antennenkomponente.

  27. Gt6pNIolL1o6hyS6
    Gt6pNIolL1o6hyS6
    3djB1v1raTKaOK3M

    • Setze den SIM Karten Auswerfer oder eine aufgebogene Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM Karteneinschub.

    • Drücke fest drauf, um die Karte auszuwerfen.

    no sim problem

    Makuri 369 -

  28. eM1XbNyDctKBBSuL
    eM1XbNyDctKBBSuL
    LKtdFJFLJjRYekKI
    aIboW4Z2xwd4LVWc

    • Entferne den SIM Karteneinschub vom iPhone.

    • Die SIM Karte fällt leicht aus dem Einschub.

    • Wenn du wieder die SIM Karte einlegst, achte auf die richtige Lage.

    • Eine kleine Gummidichtung um den Einschub sorgt für Schutz gegen Feuchtigkeit und Staub. Falls die Dichtung fehlt oder defekt ist, musst du für Ersatz sorgen, um die inneren Komponenten des iPhones zu schützen.

  29. Vm5dgKUl1PDrJPUq
    Vm5dgKUl1PDrJPUq
    fNbwSSxiqxDM4Mal
    XRGXc5bwFU14gnVl

    • Benutze ein iFixit Plastiköffnungswerkzeug oder den Fingernagel, um die Verbinder der dualen Kameras aus ihren Anschlüssen herauszulösen.

  30. fcW6IFCwCehjVycc

    • Entferne die beiden Schrauben, die die Halterung der Rückkamera befestigen:

    • Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 2,2 mm Abstandsschraube

    • Distanzschrauben lassen sich am Besten mit einem Abstandsschraubendreher oder passendem Bit entfernen.

    • Im Notfall kannst du auch einen kleinen Schlitzschraubendreher verwenden - sei aber besonders vorsichtig, dass dieser nicht abrutscht und umliegende Bauteile beschädigt.

    Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

    Trevor Smith -

    More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?

    John Tinsley -

    Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.

    Jeffrey Wilhelm -

    iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

    I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

    treadmillfix -

    There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

    Jacob DeShazo -

    My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.

    Neil Eriksen -

    I tried it with the flat blade instead of the standoff screwdriver and it worked, but I figure it added about 15 minutes of fumbling around and some risk of slipping and stripping. I have the iFixIt kit with like 80 bits so I just assumed it would be in there. Had I known before starting, I would have definitely gotten a standoff bit, just for the peace of mind.

    Arnie Schoenberg -

  31. oYK2Ue5bUFRZyuGi

    • Entferne die Abdeckung über der Rückkamera.

  32. eWDsc2xjS5nBqpLZ

    • Entferne die beiden 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die obere Kabelhalteklammer befestigen.

  33. ZbFGL2B4WBxOCYqW

    • Entferne die obere Kabelhalteklammer.

  34. lCXujcdc2AsnQib4

    • Entferne die beiden 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Erdungsklammer an der oberen linken Kante des Logic Boards sichern.

  35. TYO4LDDSQWwkYMFF

    • Entferne die Erdungsklammer.

  36. yhuXcpvNbexdaaCV
    yhuXcpvNbexdaaCV
    yxTCNXWkL3YSpWTs

    • Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die das Antennenflachbandkabel an der Oberkante des Rückgehäuses festhält.

    • Entferne die letzte Kreuzschlitzschraube vom Antenne-Flachbandkabel.

    This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

    Evan O -

    Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob

    Robert Schmidt -

    Also that "remaining" phillips screw is I think a 1.6mm phillips screw. It helps to identify them when reassembling.

    S C -

  37. xWBLBfYxglaN4kby
    xWBLBfYxglaN4kby
    a3J5vetYMSvmNLCg

    • Heble den Stecker des Antennenflachbandkabels mit deinem Fingernagel oder dem scharfen Ende eines iFixit Plastiköffnungswerkzeuges hoch und löse ihn vom Logic Board.

  38. IXyrrTwGZQAJuCCX
    IXyrrTwGZQAJuCCX
    2YYoOZSinlHppvxQ

    • Schiebe das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter das Antennenflachkabel, um den Kleber abzutrennen, der es festhält.

  39. EqfXhWo6XwBXQVEN
    EqfXhWo6XwBXQVEN
    HIQfWCwRDSmygwPm
    LYOfZZfaXKBBRUtP

    • Der Schraubdom am oberen Ende des Antennenflachkabels steckt in einer kleinen Einbuchtung an der Oberkante des iPhone.

    • Kippe das Kabel in Richtung des oberen Ende des iPhone nach oben.

    • Schiebe den Schraubdom nach unten und aus der Einbuchtung heraus.

    • Entferne das Antennenkabel.

    What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?

    Robert Schmidt -

    I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.

    Robert Schmidt -

    IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.

    Rob

    Robert Schmidt -

  40. 2duYoKfLqoDikKrW
    2duYoKfLqoDikKrW
    ZBrVZTX3riNVhVTE
    AogrCKsGaVDU2UKG

    • Benutze ein dünnes Hebelwerkzeug oder eine Pinzette, um vorsichtig die zwei Verbinder der Koaxialkabel vom Logic Board hochzuheben und zu lösen.

    • Beim Zusammenbau kann es kniffelig sein, diese wieder einzustecken. Halte nacheinander einen Verbinder genau über den Anschluss und drücke mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers darauf. Der Verbinder sollte dann einschnappen.

    What purpose do these coax cables have?

    Eddie Orantes -

    Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!

    Ronald Stamper -

    Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.

    thalley -

    Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!

    Olivier Tardy -

    Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?

    Alan Chen -

    Thanks, I was almost certain but the OEM part came with longer coax, your post saved me time, and reasured me ;)

    Martin Lambev -

    Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

    Keah Smith -

    put a dab of tippex on the top connector so you remember which is which

    Richard -

  41. pRlPDRTS1O1Kbfwq
    pRlPDRTS1O1Kbfwq
    YCI1bHJBVkIdVqaA
    2SrGnHttEBdEqA4w

    • Löse die beiden restlichen Flachbandkabel vom Logic Board:

    • Löse den oberen Kabelverbinder, indem du von oben her hebelst.

    • Löse den Verbinder des Lightning-Anschlusses, indem du entlang der Außenkante hebelst.

  42. Qsl5NAJboJRCDqNl

    • Entferne die sieben Schrauben, die das Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Zwei 2,1 mm Distanzschrauben

    • Zwei 2,0 mm DIstanzschrauben

    • Zwei 2,2 mm Distanzschrauben

    • Abstandsschrauben lassen sich am besten mit einem iPhone Distanzschraubenbit und einem Bithalter herausdrehen.

    • Zur Not geht es auch mit einem kleinen Flachschraubendreher, du musst dabei aber aufpassen, dass du nicht abrutschst und umliegende Bauteile beschädigst.

    I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

    Simon Ragona III -

    I experienced the same.

    Michael Moreno -

    Same for me.

    Zoli -

    BEWARE. THIS GUIDE IS WRONG. Whoever did this guide is obviously an amateur who doesn't know what they're doing. The standoffs are vastly different from each other in width and design. There is a SPECIFIC standoff for the top "yellow" circle which connects to the ground clip.

    DO NOT REMOVE THESE SCREWS / STANDOFFS WITHOUT CAREFULLY DOCUMENTING EACH INDIVIDUAL LOCATION AND SCREW

    FIX YOUR GUIDE!!!

    Pablo Edvardo -

    Pablo is right, there IS a visible difference between the two yellow 2.0 mm standoff screws - make a note of which is which (label, drawing, etc.) when you’re at this step.

    Christopher Villavicencio -

  43. d2QbMCuIxxhsemfE
    d2QbMCuIxxhsemfE
    udGxF21GDG21IWVL

    • Benutze die Spudgerspitze, um den Kolben des SIM-Kartenauswerfers wegzuschieben, damit das Logic Board freie Bahn hat.

  44. xsWXveUkJTkrQNa1

    • Schiebe vorsichtig die beiden Koaxialkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus der kleinen Metallklammer, die sie am Logic Board festhält.

    The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

    Evan O -

    Remember to differentiate between the two coaxial cables, its hard to tell during reassembly which is which

    Alan Chen -

  45. QaA534Yo3KIGYKMu
    QaA534Yo3KIGYKMu
    gAT21meCopYRqGBG
    YYLwtTGUKLotgwOx

    • Hebe das Logic Board an den Unterkanten hoch und schiebe es in Richtung der Unterseite des iPhones, um es zu entfernen.

    • Achte daruf, dass sich das Logic Board nirgends an irgendwelchen Kabeln verhakt.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau auf die Position der schwarzen Erdungsklammer an der oberen rechten Kante des Logic Boards in der Nähe der Rückkameras. Das Logic Board muss unter die Klammer gleiten.

    is very nice, I follow them and I really like them

    Juan Jose -

  46. lHOvsFvFYwiIMMSk

    • Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die barometrische Entlüftung am hinteren Gehäuse sichern:

    • Eine 2,9mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,1mm Schraube

    I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.

    Jamie Liao -

    I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…

    William Karis -

    If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone

    John Bryce -

    I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.

    Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.

    Thomas Young -

    i didn’t remove this and had major issues pulling the adhesive strips out. I literally couldn’t grasp them and then when i did, they broke! UGH! I was able to complete the installation but i must have done something wrong because my phone still isnt working. It just ‘flashes’ the apple logo. Won’t do anything else. Should have just taken it in for repair. Now i have to buy a new phone anyway.

    Tina Matthews -

  47. EBvQf1QUlPsSZU6e
    EBvQf1QUlPsSZU6e
    oKfGa4eTuPMASdef

    • Schiebe vorsichtig die barometrische Entlüftung in Richtung des Taptic Engine, um den Kleber zu lösen, mit dem sie an der Unterkante des iPhone befestigt ist.

    Adhesive may require a tiny amount of tugging of the barometric vent to free it…

    Sarr Sheffer -

  48. 6CqaBIqrf6xoOkBH

    • Entferne die Entlüftung.

  49. sI2JshoksIQI2mRE
    sI2JshoksIQI2mRE
    GZuodsS5GS4f5vl5

    • Heble den Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Taptic Engine hoch, um ihn zu trennen.

  50. aTMZJnQKohAmFXty

    • Drehe die drei 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben heraus, die die Taptic Engine am Gehäuserückteil sichern.

  51. s3dSWP43OlcbXE1T

    • Entferne die Taptic Engine.

    I’m just gonna add a comment here because I’m guessing a lot of other people who are repairing iphone 7s, like me, thought “lets also get a new battery!” This is the point at which you pull the three tape pieces holding the battery to the case out to remove the old battery. When you install a new battery, the battery connector has to be able to line up perfectly with the plug on the logic board so the battery has to go back in the exact right place. This is harder when you’ve already taken apart most of the phone. I ended up putting the battery back in after step 37. Still difficult to positiion it right. I think if I did it again, I might mark where the battery is on the case before I remove it…

    Alex McDonough -

    connect the new battery first then place battery in case

    Richard -

  52. uNlKMwxVs1asfwK5
    uNlKMwxVs1asfwK5
    PtpCJAZytIojVYwV
    TPbrhP6v4VHwq6P5

    • Löse vorsichtig die beiden Koaxialkabel aus der Metallklammer, mit der sie an der Seite des Lautsprechers befestigt sind.

    per disinguere l'ordine dei connetori vedere l'ottima guida di ifixit dove sostituzione antenna, buon lavoro.

    albinococco -

  53. E2MQmOUTmnIskA4n

    • Fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben halten den Lautsprecher. Löse sie:

    • Drei 1,3 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,3 mm Schraube

    • Eine 3,3 mm Schraube

    For reassembly, the Lightning assembly’s coax cable is routed on top of the speaker’s, and is connected to the lower coax plug at the logic board.

    S C -

    Yes! I marked one with a fine point sharpie to tell the difference. Super important to make a note of each piece, cable, and their position along the way!

    Christopher Villavicencio -

  54. J2diW2U2NMNGKUw5

    • Entferne den Lautsprecher.

    One of the coaxial cables is attached to speaker. Was pulling out the speaker and this was tripping me up until I looked closer

    Alan Ehrle -

    Be careful when putting this part aside with the others as it has magnetics on it and can catch your screw messing them around. The struggle is real.

    vinicius.edson -

  55. 2C5ae4S2s1PbNjOx

    • Entferne die 2,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube oben links an der Lightning Buchse.

  56. phVaKTKN6o1ktJd1

    • Entferne den Federkontakt unter der eben entfernten Schraube.

    Whats this part used for?

    Eddie Orantes -

    Bonjour, depuis que j’ai changé la nappe du connecteur de charge mon bouton home ne fonctionne plus sur iPhone 7, pouvez vous l’aiguillette. Merci d’avance

    Geoffrey -

    The inverted twitters just saved me from a headache when trying to put this one back in.

    vinicius.edson -

  57. P3kipF4p3HAVAL42

    • Entferne folgende drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den Lightning Connector befestigen:

    • Zwei 1,7 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,8 mm Schraube

  58. 4rG1KDQ24TIuhTbt

    • Entferne die beiden 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Lightning Buchse an der Unterkante des iPhone befestigen.

    The right one on my phone won’t come out as if it’s rounded off but isn’t any ideas ?

    Ellis whait -

    I had that same problem with one of them. I ended up ripping that piece off and then spinning the entire thing around and that loosened it enough to where i could use another screw driver to spin it out the rest of the way.

    Jeffrey Kovarik -

    Tiene cada tornillo una rondana tipo tierra que a veces se queda pegada a placa del circuito DGC

    Daniel Garcia Camacho -

  59. UsAOQSXD44T1B3LI
    UsAOQSXD44T1B3LI
    VyvigOIYbkrZUFgQ
    rLJSs3grrZE31KTt

    • Benutze die scharfe Kante eines iFixit Plastiköffners, um die beiden Mikrofone von ihrem Kleber zu lösen.

    • Versuche nicht die Mikrofone ganz zu entfernen; löse nur die Klebestellen wie eben beschrieben.

    I was replacing the battery as well. Now is a great time to remove it.

    John Tinsley -

    I followed John’s advice, and it went smoothly. My iPhone had a white outline of where the battery was on the back case (you can see the white lines in the photo), but I added a few more lines with a white marker just to make sure I would put the new battery in the correct place.

    Christopher Villavicencio -

  60. ZFMPSGIWMUMqFPwE
    ZFMPSGIWMUMqFPwE
    wfMyRmEOKfL2BtSM
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    • Fahre mit einem Plektrum oder einem dünnen Plastikhebel unter den oberen Teil des Flachbandkabels der Lightning Einheit und beginne es vom Rückgehäuse zu lösen.

    • Wenn nötig, musst du einen Fön oder einen iOpener benutzen, um das Gehäuserückteil aufzuwärmen, damit die Klebestellen weich werden, und es leichter geht.

  61. GJnGhfM54vOcg3oA
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    • Löse weiterhin den oberen Teil des Flachbandkabels, beschädige dabei keine umliegenden Bauteile.

  62. FPMqCXSsOJlFDHdL
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    • Fahre nun vorsichtig mit dem Plektrum von der Ecke des Akkus zur Ecke des iPhones, um den Teil des Flachbandkabels zu lösen, der am äusseren Rahmen befestigt ist.

  63. DZ11fWHO3GkkBRV6
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    • Schiebe dein Plektrum die Breite des iPhones erlange um alle restlichen Flachbandkabelstränge vom Rückgehäuse zu lösen.

    • Passe dabei sehr auf, den Akku nicht zu beschädigen. Aus einem beschädigter Akku können gefährliche Chemikalien fliessen und/ oder er kann Feuer fangen.

    During re-assembly, ensure you add those four kinks in the ribbon sections that drop down the ridge in the rear casing (perhaps very carefully bend them in shape before sticking the new connector assembly to the casing, which I’ve not yet tried). Otherwise the new ribbon won’t sit directly over the white dots higher up the case, leading to misalignment when trying to connect other ribbon cables later on.

    Dan Gow -

    I thought I understood what Dan meant above. What he’s saying is really helpful, but I didn’t quite understand. During reassembly, I ended up trying to make the bends with a spooger once the replacement piece was already in the case and I poked a small hole through the piece, just missing an electrical component (it still worked). You can see the four bends in the picture here, (all horozontal to the bottom of the phone) but they might be easier to understand if you look at the old lightning connector piece you just took out. They’re four tiny kinks that are essential. If I did it again, I would make the kinks, then apply the ends of the “L” of this part and work toward the bend or the angle of the “L” in the corner. This was probably the hardest part of the repair…

    Alex McDonough -

  64. 4AscAOcYkY12TtAW
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    • Entferne die Lightning Einheit.

    • Bevor du die Einheit wieder einsetzt oder austauschst:

    • Schabe mit einem Plastiköffner alle Reste von Kleber vom Rückgehäuse ab.

    • Du kannst verbleibende Klebereste mit Isopropanol (90% oder mehr) und einem fusselfreien Tuch entfernen. Wische nur in eine Richtung, nicht hin und her.

    • Sorge dafür, dass die Lightning Einheit richtig sitzt, indem die beiden weißen Punkte auf dem Gehäuserückteil in die zwei runden Ausschnitte im Flachbandkabel passen. Wenn das nicht der Fall ist, wird das Kabel schlecht sitzen und du wirst den Verbinder nicht in den Anschluss auf dem Logic Board einstecken können.

    the red bit is so important. I’ve just had to completely do this tutorial again bacause it was less than a millimeter askew :( Be careful guys

    AubreyG1 -

    For re-assembly, I first removed the adhesive below the red circles and aligned and adhered. Then, I moved my way down toward the bottom, removing the adhesive. Seemed to work out well.

    Jaret Johnson -

    This should be in the instructions. It is nearly impossible to align otherwise.

    Thomas de Araujo -

    Same as Jaret, I have first exposed the adhesive on the very top section of the lightning port assembly, aligned the assembly with the 2 dots right in the center, and then adhered it there. Then I carefully “rehearesed” / practiced how I would align the rest of the assemble down to the microphones and the connector itself. The top section although already glued on around the two dots, can still slide a bit so I can realign it if needed before I adhere the rest of the assembly. Before I adhere the rest of the assembly I have also placed the logic board just to verify that the top Lightning Port assembly connector goes on perfectly onto the logic board. This helps confirm that it’s sitting well at the top.

    Getting the port connector in as well as the microphones was a bit tedious but that’s the most important part of this process so I took the time to do it right. It was worth it as the phone worked perfectly when I put it all back together.

    S C -

    There is also a little fold or ridge right in front of the lightening socket on the flex.. that little ridge takes up the 1mm you’re out on the dots if you can’t get it aligned. Your speaker may also not work if you get this wrong.

    Scott i -

    I think a picture of what to clean is needed as if there is anything left it may not fit

    WADE TURNER -

  65. EIlDsb3BSRuWhFfi
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    • Eine Gummidichtung am unteren Ende der Lightning Buchse schützt das iPhone vor Feuchtigkeit und Staub. Wenn du eine neue Lighning Einheit installierst, solltest du vorsichtig die alte Dichtung entfernen und auf der neuen befestigen.

    • Der kleine Aufkleber auf der Rückseite jedes Mikrofons schützt das iPhone vor Feuchtigkeit und Staub. Damit das Ergebnis richtig gut wird, solltest du diese Teile austauschen bevor du die Lightning Einheit einbaust.

    Excellent procedure to take it apart however the kit came with a ‘Mesh’ kit of gaskets and speaker vents with no actual instructions of what is what or when each should be installed. One item that was not in the ‘Mesh’ kit is the rectangular gasket for the lighting connector. Even though it come off the old assembly easily enough there is no adhesive to hold it in place when aligning the assembly into the case.

    I think there should be a parts list with the Mesh kit to make identifying these tiny seal identifiable. That would be helpful.

    WADE TURNER -

    Agree with WADE TURNER. This is really, really weak on the part of iFixit. You need clearer instructions for putting this thing back together—particularly for the adhesives with no identification whatsoever. Also, I hope you are reading this, because aligning the lightning connector assembly perfectly is CRITICAL. If it is not perfectly aligned, there is no way you will be able to connect it to the logic board later.

    Thomas de Araujo -

    I third the comments here.

    Todd Toner -

    Normally when I replace the charge port on any iPhone or device I first connect it to the mainboard to test the connector. After I know that the charge port flex will connect and take amperage from the lightning cable. I leave the flex connector connected to the mainboard and proceed in installing the flex, with the motherboard first, Then I will route the charge port flex cable to the bottom of the phone. That ensures proper placement of the connector and also no kinks in the flex when applying it to the frame.

    As for the microphone or any small component that needs sealant I use a liquid adhesive (no super Glue) use like T7000 T8000 or similar. Take a toothpick and dab a small amount around the area that needs adhesive. Then adhere to the 2 pieces( in this case the microphone to the frame. This always provides a water-tight seal. No matter the location.

    John Loya -

    Amazing that we get to the end and find no re-assembly instructions or specific details about the mesh kit. Ugh!

    Tim Odell -

    tim, follow it backward

    ur mom -

    My Lightning Port assembly came with both the membrane that goes onto the microphone, as well as a pair of “screen” mesh that replace the old ones at the opening for the phone’s speaker and heat port. It took a few minutes to inspect everything and replace them but it’s one-to-one replacement so it helps. There were also a couple of other adhesive parts that I couldn’t see on my phone. Don’t know their purpose.

    In summary additional explanation would help but as is it was decent enough. With the investigation and thinking, the whole process took me much longer than 2 hours but my phone is working fantastically and it was well worth it.

    S C -

    I also replaced the battery right at this step before putting everything else back together. That was pretty easy.

    S C -

    For my repair the adhesive patch that goes on the microphone shown bottom right in the third image was the wrong size. It was about 2mm to long, which meant that the two small holes which are supposed to line up with spikes on the phone body did not. I had the cut it to size. Also, I echo the comments made by others above. Simply stating 'follow this procedure in reverse' is suitable, especially after how much we paid. There are many intricacies that aren't explained that aren't needed when disassembling by are needed when assembling.

    Jamie -

Abschluss

Vergleiche dein neues Ersatzteil genau mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungsmöglichkeiten. In unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlerbehebung.

Tinte & Feder

Jeff Suovanen

Mitglied seit: 06/08/13

413365 Reputation

40 Kommentare

NOTE TO ALL: When you put the port back in, LINE UP THE HOLES ON THE FRAME. If you don’t line up the holes perfectly on the cable (even if it’s off by a millimeter), the cable will NOT extend and plug into the logic board. It has to be perfect. You’re welcome :)

Brady8812 -

I have this issue but cant seem to get it to set properly? any ideas the po seems like it's in fine but wont connect to logic board

Sean Smyth -

I feel like this is the most important piece of information on this entire guide. I drove myself mad disassembling and reassembling multiple iPhone 7/8 Plus devices with this exact issue.

Conrad -

So i did this and now my home button does not work. Any suggestions?

Brandon Rasco -

So far as I can tell, the only part of this procedure that affects the home button is when it’s disconnected from the board in step 14. I’d probably double-check those connectors to make sure they’re seated properly for a start. Check the sockets for dust/debris or pin damage. Inspect the cables for damage. While you’re troubleshooting, remember to always disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi there, I did the whole process successfully, phone starts up again but I charging does not work?? Tried different cables - didn’t work! Any suggestions? Thanks Thomas

Thomas Senn -

Either you haven’t connected it back up properly, you may have bent pins or debris on the connections or you have a faulty charging flex cable.

Clems -

One of the parts isn’t genuine. Either your actual charging port or the cable you’re using.

Clems -

So I did this and now it shows ”this accessory may not be supported,” any suggestions?

Slavic Nikitenko -

I replaced my charging port and now the service is not coming to my phone. Does anyone know which antennae or cable I messed up when replacing it? Wifi works but not data.

Knox Watson -

I have had the same issue happen. I tried multiple charging ports for my customer and each one would lose cell service. The second I put the original port back in, service was working again. I called my tech support team to no solution. Has anyone else experienced this and able to get it resolved?

drbenson511 -

I took it slowly and was extra careful. everything worked out perfectly, except putting the adhesive back on, good thing I was also changing the battery so I had two. One thing you should note is which coaxial cables go where before you disconnect them. I was lucky that one was longer than the other and thats how I figured it out.

Pedro De Anda Jr -

Dose this lightning connector part come with the microphones

Fredy cadena -

It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

Jack -

Can you give a little more explanation here? It might make total sense once I’m inside, but I’m having trouble figuring out which three standoff screws you’re referring to. Looking at step 37, is it the two 2.2 mm screws (green) and the 2.0 mm screw (yellow) on the right side? And do you think I can do it this way without isopropyl alcohol? I’ve only got 70% on hand.

pphenow -

i did this but phone still dead

David Kheng -

This is a very difficult and risky procedure. As an experienced electronics and tech hobbyist and professional (i’m a king nerd), after hours of methodical disassembly, part replacement and reassembly, I managed to not fix my phone and make it worst. Now my battery doesn’t recharge, my SIM card is not being recognized, and the phone is likely not water resistant anymore. A huge waste of time (and some money). I would not recommend anyone moving ahead with this procedure.

Julien Maculan -

Replaced this with iFixit replacement part. The repair went well, however when inserting the SIM, Verizon comes up however I have no bars. I’ve tested on another iPhone with no problem. Any ideas?

chris -

Buongiorno, il connettore Lightning del iPhone 7 è lo stesso del 7 plus?

Grazie mille

Buflein -

I cannot get my charging port to connect back to the main board i have tried setting the port a few times but still no joy?

Sean Smyth -

So my brother changed mine and mixed up all the screws.. how in the world do I find out which screws go where?? Is there a new screw set I can buy that’s already in order

biggs.leana -

I have done lots of these on 7 and 7+………. can be done without removing the logic board, which saves a lot of steps.

Gently lift it and slide something underneath it to free it, and you can slide the old port flex out and the new one in……. just make sure its

in the right position and you can connect it to the board before setting the logic board back down.

Alan Sears -

made this repair. phone is charging now…thank god. everything else is working. but my rear face camera image is shaking( blurry than focused and repeating) front facing camera image on screen is perfect. Helppppppp

morris3891 -

im about to do this repair and now im worried after reading comments

lee hallett -

Finished the whole repair but my speaker seams to not be working any suggestions to fix this everything else works fine

Christopher compton -

Hello,

my iphone is 7plus having two issue one of them is battery is gone very fast so i think i have to changed it but i have another issue i would like your opinon once i make a call i can’t hear anything and the receiver same can’t hear anything so what i have to fixed it.

thank you

Kamal demyian -

I did the replacement for the lightning connector, it works but now the touch screen doesn’t work. Any suggestions on why this is happening? I went back through the process twice and still the same result. I was careful not to damage the connectors to the screen but I can see if there’s damage or not. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Juan Daniels -

The reason I Changed the part is the microphone does not work right after I installed everything I only got the apple logo and nothing else , would not work I had to put back the old part back and it started but still have the microphone problem

Julio Estrada -

An important note when attaching the new lightning port ribbon cable and coaxial cables to the logic board: the new part needs foam padding on top of the press fit cable attachments. You can either steal it from your old ones or put some padding there some other way, but if you don’t have it, it seems the cable bracket will short the connection and prevent the phone from charging. Some of the ifixit parts will not have this padding on there, so double check!

Dylan Box -

I followed the instructions to the letter, was very very very careful with handling the ribbon cables and keeping the screws labelled in separate pots so they went back in exactly the right places, changed the charging port and installed a brand new ifixit battery for good measure. Put it all back together and…nothing. Battery won’t charge, neither will the old one. Powers on with the old battery but thats it. Have checked all my work several times, re-attached the ribbon cables and still nothing. I now have to take it to one of those untrustworthy mobile phone repair shops you find all over the UK that I have been trying so hard to avoid. A massive waste of time and money.

matt2 -

My sister has been having charging issues with her 7 plus. Might have to try this sometime.

Carter -

Well my first attempt was going so well and then trying to remove the sticky backing from the back of one of the mics and the whole mic came off at the ribbon. Arrrgh, So thought maybe it would work with one mic and carried on but now the lightening connector not aligned with logic board AARRGGH!.

Harvinder Azad -

Can someone tell me what the yellow circular tab is for on one of the microphones. I don’t see tho son the one removed. Thanks

Harvinder Azad -

Thanks this was really help for a junior engineer like me.

Kymani Bailey -

Ok step 37 is VERY misleading. Those standoff screws are NOT interchangeable with the others labeled with the same color.

When you are taking off the motherboard, be extremely careful to keep the standoffs organized.

Thomas Rosebrough -

Replacement connector to the logic board does not stay connected. Snaps in, but won’t stay on. Aligned the dots just fine. It’s not an alignment issue. The connector goes on just fine. It just doesn’t stay on.

Curt Shaffer -

So to follow up, reconnecting and disconnecting everything down to the Lightning Connector Assembly itself about three times…no joy. Finally just closed the phone without the seals. I get the mic and the cellular connection…yeah. — But NO CHARGING. I get the “this accessory may not be supported” error message. — So what now “I Fix It”, huh? This whole process is a mess: from lack of proper instructions (coax cables not properly labeled. Some screws are different when labeled the same) and the kit you sell us is missing the Stand-Over screwdriver we need for the procedure! Your kit we paid for is incomplete, and we only find out once we’ve got the phone open. I didn’t fix it, and surely not with your help.

Curt Shaffer -

great guide to a tedious repair. Took me 4 hours ( i have poor eyesight and poor lighting). under better conditions i probably could have done it it 2 hours.

Big Al -

This one was not fun. I used to love fixing iPhones because they were so much simpler than other brands, but once the water resistance -- and techniques to hobble non-OEM parts -- were introduced, they became a nightmare. This port better last, because I think I'm done buying iPhones; Not being able to easily repair them anymore is a deal breaker.

Taylor -

Thanks for the great tutorial!

Gabriel Sieben -